Die Käseglocke des Alltags sprengen und den Gedankenmüll einfach »wegpaddeln«
Kanu 06/2008

Down by River

Drei Freunde, ein Fluss, ein Sommer - das Rezept ist einfach. Man muss nicht ans Ende der Welt fliegen, um Abenteuer zu erleben. Dimitri Lehner und Konsorten machten einige Schritte vor die Haustüre und der Lech schickte sie auf die Reise.

Er ballt das Gesicht zu Faust. Stephan weiß: Was jetzt kommt, übersteigt seine Fähigkeiten. Ein kräftiger Zug und das Boot schwenkt flussabwärts. Wie Polypenarme greifen die Fluten nach Stephans Kajak, zerren, reißen, schubsen, boxen. Wildwasser der Schwierigkeit 111. Noch vor kurzem konnte sich Stephan darunter nichts vorstellen. »Was soll denn hier passieren?«, juxte er, als ich ihm die Stromschnellen bei Lechbruck ankündigte, während der Fluss noch träge dahinbummelte. Doch jetzt beginnt der zahme Fluss zu toben, schüttelt sich wie in einem Wutanfall, brodelt, schleudert Gischt in die Höhe und strudelt weiße Girlanden ins grüne Wasser. Andi und ich schauen aus.der Ferne zu, wie der Freund flussabwärts gesaugt wird . Mit einem Schwall Weißwasser rutscht Stephan über die Kante und verschwindet im Gebrodel. Wir halten die Luft an. Stephan hoffentlich auch. Denn mal ragt nur der Bug senkrecht aus dem Wasserknäuel, mal nur das Heck - Stephan tanzt einen einsamen Tanz auf dem wilden Lech.

Bei Lechbruck dreht der Lech ein letztes Mal auf und fordert Mann und Material.

Der Lech ist einer der letzten »echten« Wildflüsse der Alpen. Schon seit Jahrtausenden narrt er die Menschen mit seinen Launen. Römische Heerführer irrten an seinen Ufern entlang auf der Suche nach einem sicheren Übergang, der sich nirgends finden ließ. Depechen-Reiter verschwanden in seinen Auwäldern und Sümpfen auf Nimmerwiedersehen und Flößer fürchteten die Nebelbänke dicht überm Wasser, die Untiefen und Felsen verhüllten und die Sinne täuschten. Vielerorts hat der Lech noch immer diesen ursprünglichen, wilden Charakter. In Tirol zum Beispiel, wo er sich zwischen den steilen Bergflanken der Lechtaler und Allgäuer Alpen nach Norden schlängelt. Hier macht er seinem Namen alle Ehre: Lech, der Steinreiche. So tauften ihn die Kelten. Er schiebt Tonnen von Kies flussabwärts, modelliert sein Bett jedes Jahr aufs Neue, schüttet Inseln auf, um sie beim nächsten Hochwasser wieder wegzuschwemmen oder an anderer Stelle zu errichten. Noch weiter flussab dagegen, auf deutscher Seite, rauben ihm unzählige Stauwehre und Betonmauern die Wildheit, zwingen ihn auf Kurs und lassen ihn durch die Landschaft trotten wie einen Zoo-Tiger am Käfiggitter: matt und zahm.

64 Kilometer legt der Lech auf seiner Reise von Vorarlberg durch Tirol nach Süd bayern zurück, bis er schließlich in die Donau mündet. Dabei rauscht er nach und nach 2400 Meter in die Tiefe. Das Gefälle lässt das Wasser weit oben in den Bergen besonders schnell durchs Flussbett hetzen. Tage zuvor und noch weit von den Lechbrucker Stromschnellen entfernt, beginnen wir unseren Trip in der kleinen Ortschaft Steeg. Ein idealer Startpunkt für Hobbypaddler, rät der Kanuführer. »Sollen wir nicht noch weiter hoch?«, fragt Andi, vom Wort Hobbypaddler etwas abgestoßen. Andi fing sehr früh mit dem Paddeln an; wurde als 14-Jähriger sogar bayerischer Slalommeister. Seitdem hat der heute 40-Jährige alle möglichen Outdoor-Sportarten ausprobiert. Schon allein seine Optik lässt tief blicken: schulterlange schwarze Locken, T-Shirt mit abgeschnittenen Ärmeln, pralle Bizeps, Cargo-Pants und ein sonnengebräunter Teint - dieser Kerl verbringt seine Zeit am liebsten mit Klettern, Biken, Paddeln oder Windsurfen - am liebsten alles an einem Tag. »Weiter oben ist es vielleicht spannender «, meint auch Stephan, dabei ist es für ihn die allererste Paddeltour. Stephan ist wie Andi ein Naturbursche. Mit seinen braunen Augen unter buschigen Augenbrauen und der markanten Nase sieht er aus wie die moderne Version vom Räuber Hotzenplotz.

Egal was Stephan macht - Klettern, Skifahren, Mountainbiken - er macht es mit Risiko und beendet einen Trip lieber mit gebrochenem Schlüsselbein, als sich vorwerfen zu müssen, nicht alles gegeben zu haben. Bei so viel Risikobereitschaft muss ich wohl schützend eingreifen, damit wir nicht in die Lechschluchten geraten. Doch auch dafür liefert der Flussführer zwingende Argumente. »Ich glaube, weiter oben ist gesperrt.« Zweifelnde Blicke. »Schluss jetzt, Boote aufblasen!", gebe ich das Kommando und muss über meinen KasernenTon selbst lachen.

Kleine Farbenlehre

Richtig einladend sieht das Wetter für eine Bootstour nicht aus. Wolken hüllen die Berge um uns in Watte. Die Gipfel recken sich hier über 2000 Meter nach oben, doch heute lassen sie sich nur erahnen. Stephan pumpt Luft in die Boote, Andi packt Grillfleisch, Bananen und Kekse in wasserdichte Säcke, während ich in die Wolken starre, aus denen dicke Regentropfen fallen . Sommer in den Alpen. Schönen Dank, Petrus.

Mit Gänsehaut und regen nassen Gesichtern zwängen wir uns in die Boote. Es sind Luftboote, die aussehen wie kleine Seekajaks. In der Staukammer im Heck stecken Brotzeit und Schlafsack. Stephan schiebt sich mit dem Paddel Richtung Flussmitte und schon schwemmt ihn der Lech davon. Wir fo lgen. Statt in gletschereisblaues Wasser tauchen unsere Paddel in eine milchige Suppe. Schneeschmelze. Normalerweise ist das Lechwasser arm an Feinsedimenten und schillert daher wie Gletschereis. Erst nach und nach nimmt dann der Mineralgehalt zu und das Wasser wird immer grüner, bis der Fluss bei Landsberg ganz flaschengrün dahinfließt. Schon in der ersten Stromschnelle kentert Stephan. »Anfänger!«, rufe ich und zische an ihm vorbei, während er prustend den gekenterten Bootsrumpf umarmt. »Das war Absicht«, schreit er mir hinterher, »einfach am Rand runterhoppeln wie ihr Langweiler ist ja albern!«

Die Kilometer purzeln. Hinter Stockach kommt die Sonne raus. Endlich unterwegs. Häuser tauchen auf und verschwinden wieder. Mal ein Kirchturm. Mal eine Brücke. Dann sind wir wieder nur von Natur umgeben. Irgendwann, irgendwo rasten wir auf der Kiesbank, dösen in der Sonne und drehen ein Zigarettchen - dann geht's wieder weiter. Es dämmert bereits, als Andi ins Kehrwasser hinter einer Landzunge kurvt. Dabei sticht er das Paddel wie einen Speer ins Wasser und lässt das Boot mit einem Ruck um 90 Grad kreiseln . Die hohe Kunst des Ziehschlags. Ein Move, den Stephan und ich bewundern, aber nicht schaffen zu kopieren. »Hier sieht's doch ganz gut zum Übernachten aus. Schaut, die ganzen Heuschuppen «, sagt Andi und steigt aus. Zwar gibt es einige ideale Campingplätze für Paddler auf der Strecke, doch wir wollen lieber etwas improvisieren. Auch ich schultere mein Boot und klettere die Uferböschung hoch.

Andi stapft vor mir und sieht aus wie ein Angler, der einen Rekordfang nach Hause trägt. In der Ferne ragt ein weiterer Kirchturm in den Abendhimmel. Die ersten Sterne blinken. Wir lassen unsere Boote an einem Heuschuppen im Gras liegen und wandern zur Ortschaft - ganz gespannt, wie sie heißt. »Elmen«, klärt uns der Wirt des Gasthauses auf, während er uns dampfende Teller vor die Nase setzt. »Wow, schon so weit!«, freut sich Stephan und sein Finger rutscht auf der Landkarte noch ein ganzes Stück weiter flussabwärts. Als die Sonne am nächsten Morgen über die Bergrücken kriecht, schieben wir die Boote schon wieder ins Wasser. Morgennebel über den Wiesen, die Ortschaft noch im Schatten, Vogelgezwitscher in der Luft - wir sind die ersten; der Tag gehört uns.

Belohnung fürs frühe Aufstehen: Morgennebel übern Lech bei Schongau.

Für mich ist der zweite Tag einer Tour eigentlich der erste, denn erst dann schafft man es, die Käseglocke zu sprengen, die der Alltag über einen stülpt. Der ganze Gedankenmüll verschwindet und mit jedem Paddelzug verpufft der Alltag mehr und mehr aus dem Bewusstsein. Der Kopf wird frei und die Sinne erwachen. Keine Termine, keine Verpflichtungen, kein Zeitdruck. Es beginnt ein neuer Tag und keiner von uns weiß, was er bringen wird. Wo werden wir übernachten? Keine Ahnung. Es wird sich alles ergeben. Ich fülle die Lungen mit einem tiefen Atemzug, atme befreit durch. Von den Wolken des Vortags sind nur noch Fetzen übrig, der Blick auf die Berge ist frei. Wie schlafende Drachen liegen sie da, zum Greifen nah, als würden sie sich am Lechufer ausruhen. Wir schaukeln an ihnen vorbei.

Raus aus dem Boot, rein in den Flieger

Nach zwei Tagen im Boot hat meine Seele endlich Urlaub.

Es ist Nachmittag, als eine Brücke vor mir auftaucht. Das wäre an sich nichts Besonderes, doch oben beugen sich Leute weit übers Geländer, schreien und fuchteln mit den Armen. »Was ist das denn?«, rufe ich Andi zu, »'ne Gefahrenstelle?« Als wir näher kommen, erkenne ich ein Stahlseil im Wasser baumeln - und daran Stephan. »Das ist das Zugseil vom Segelflug platz«, sagt Stephan, der schon eine Minute vor mir die Brücke passiert hat, und zieht am Seil. Ich packe mit an. Am Ende des Seils baumelt ein Fallschirm in der Strömung und spannt das Seil straff wie eine Gitarrensaite. Zu guter Letzt ringen wir zu viert mit dem Schirm und zerren ihn schließlich aus dem Wasser. Jubelrufe ertönen von der Brücke. Wie ein Arm voller schmutziger Wäsche übergeben wir den Schirm den Leuten von der Brücke, alles Segelflieger, wie sich rausstellt. Die Herren um die 60 strahlen wie kleine Kinder und klopfen uns auf die Schulter. »Wenn der Fallschirm in der Strömung abgerissen wäre, wär's richtig teuer geworden«, klärt uns Flugleiter Schorsch auf. Wir werden zum Flugplatz geführt: eine gemähte Wiese direkt am Ufer. »Wie wär's mit einem Freiflug als Belohnung?«, fragt Schorsch.

Wir schauen uns irritiert an. Aber warum eigentlich nicht? Wir haben ja Zeit. Der Lech chauffiert uns jederzeit weiter - bestimmte Abfahrtszeiten kennt der Fluss nicht. Andi steigt als erster in den Segelflieger. Kurzes Handsignal von Schorsch und weg ist er. Das Stahlseil, das gerade noch im Lech baumelte, zieht an und lässt den Segelflieger fast senkrecht in die Luft gehen. Stephan und ich legen den Kopf in den Nacken und staunen. »Wenn das mal gutgeht mit seiner MagenDarm- Grippe«, frage ich mich laut. Schorsch guckt fragend. »Ohhh, dann war der Sepp mit seiner 250 km/h schnellen Kunstflug-Maschine vielleicht keine gute Idee ... «

Ohne zu zögern rammt Andi die Paddel blätter ins Wasserkraftvoll und mit angespannten Muskeln - als würde er den Fluss zum Faustkampf herausfordern.

Am Abend sitzen wir nicht weit vom Flugplatz flussabwärts im Kies. Ein Lagerfeuer knistert. Es zischt, wenn der Saft der Steaks in die Glut tropft. »Holy shit, hat der mich durch die Luft geschaukelt«, erzählt Andi. »Und meiner erst. Ich dachte, der macht gleich einen Looping«, sagt Stephan, während er ein paar Spritzer Bier über sein Steak träufelt. »Jungs, was soll ich sagen, mein Pilot wollte einen neuen Höhenmeterrekord knacken und sichelte so dicht an der Bergflanke entlang, dass ich schon nach dem Fallschirmgriff gefummelt habe. Die sind komplett verrückt, diese Flieger.« Wir sind uns einig: schön, wieder zu paddeln. Verrückte Flieger ...

Andis Drang nach Action wird erst bei Lechbruck gestillt. Hier stolpert der Lech über eine Kante einige Meter in die Tiefe, spuckt und hustet aus Zorn schaumige Gischt, bis sich die Wogen wieder glätten und der Fluss ruhig weiterströmt. Ohne zu zögern rammt Andi die Paddelblätter ins Wasser. Kraftvoll und mit angespannten Muskeln - als würde er den Fluss zum Faustkampf herausfordern. Unten im Kehrwasser treffen wir uns wieder. »Coole Nummer. Aber glaubst du, der Stephan packt das?«, zweifelt Andi. Ich nicke. »Und wenn nicht, dann gibt's höchstens blaue Flecken und ein paar Schluck Lechwasser.« Wir beobachten, wie Stephan über die Wogen tanzt und nach der Walze nur um Haaresbreite entkommt.

Ein Gewitter wie WW VI

Leider verlangsamt der Lech sein Tempo, als müsse er sich von dem Wutausbruch erst einmal erholen. Doch langweilig wird es deshalb nicht. Aus Fluss wird See. Und das nicht nur unterhalb des Lechfalls bei Füssen. Dort wurde der Lech 1954 zum Forggensee aufgestaut. Auch weiter flussab erlahmt der Fluss vor unzä hligen Staustufen. Abgestorbene Bäume ragen aus dem Wasser. Kormorane sitzen auf den Ästen. Wie Rasierklingen schneiden unsere Boote durchs spiegelglatte Wasser. Die Kormorane äugen skeptisch rüber. Fische springen und flüchten vor unserem Schatten. Amazonas oder Oberbayern - im Moment gibt es kaum einen Unterschied. An einer Staustufe sitzen wir auf dem Damm. Andi döst in der Sonne, ich lutsche an einer Nektarine, Stephan pumpt mehr Luft in sein Boot. »Kein Wunder, dass ich wie eine Banane durch die Stromschnellen geeiert bin. Da war viel zu wenig Luft in meinem Boot.« Ich drehe mir ein Zigarettchen, genieße di ~Sonne auf dem Rücken und lasse Stephan in seinem Glauben.

In der Litzauer Schleife hinter Dessau erwacht der Lech wieder aus seiner Lethargie und kurvt in großen Bögen durch die Landschaft. Um die Natur hier nicht zu stören, soll man in Flussmitte paddeln, mahnt der Kanuführer. Wir sind alleine. Kein Mensch weit und breit, keine Strommasten, keine Straße. Wir paddeln und schauen - bedächtig wie bei einer Klosterbesichtigung. Wir gleiten durch einen grünen Tunnel: hoher Uferwald zu beiden Seiten und tiefes grünes Wasser unter uns.

Als nur noch 20 Kilometer vor uns liegen, werde ich sentimental. Ich denke an unser zweites Grillfeuer, an die Nacht im Fischerschuppen bei Schongau, wo uns ein Angler Schutz vorm Dauerregen gab, an die Fallsch irmspringer im Himmel über Schongau, das Sonnenbaden bei Kinsau, wo uns Schüler ihre Räder liehen, um im Tante-Emma-Laden Pfirsiche und Leberkäs-Semmeln zu kaufen, das gemütliche Dahintreiben, den Schlangenalarm an der Staustufe 21, wo eine große Ringelnatter unter unseren Booten durchtauchte, das Baden im Fluss - fünf Tage so intensiv wie ein ganzer Sommer.

Der Himmel hat sich bewölkt. Nicht nur das Wetter, auch die Landschaft wird wieder wilder. Ein Wald aus toten Bäumen streckt seine Stämme wie Geisterfinger in den gelben Gewitterhimmel. Gerade noch windstill, pfeifen jetzt Böen ins Gesicht. Nur schnell weiter-eine Sturmfahrt beg innt. Wie ein Vorhang fä llt plötzlich Platzregen vom Himmel. Ohrenbetäubendes Geprassel. Die Regentropfen sch ießen wie Querschläger durch die Luft: Wasser von oben und von unten. Die Freunde sind kaum zu sehen, obwohl nur wenige Meter entfernt. Mal tobt der Sturm, in der nächsten Minute ist es wieder windstill. Donner grummelt, Blitze zucken in der Ferne.

Ich ziehe das Paddel mit aller Kraft durch, schaue rüber zu Stepha n, der auf gleicher Höhe paddelt. Wir verziehen beide das Gesicht - ganz geheuer ist uns die Wetterschlacht nicht. »Ich habe ja gottseidank ein Kunststoffpaddel«, feixt er gegen den Sturm zu mir rüber. Ich starre auf das Alupaddel in meinen Händen. Ob das einen Unterschied macht? Jetzt ängstigen mich die Blitze noch mehr und ich erhöhe das Tempo, bis die Unterarme schmerzen. Es ist schon acht Uhr abends, als ein neues Gewitter aufzieht. Die Dämmerung und der Gewitterhimmel verdunkeln den Uferwald zu einem konturlosen Band. Irgendwo hier muss unser Auto stehen. Donner rumpelt, Wetterleuchten f lackert und sechs Augen scannen das Ufer ab. »Dort«, ruft Stephan und hält auf eine kleine Bucht zu. Die letzten Paddelzüge schieben die Boote auf den Uferkies. Wir stemmen uns aus de(1 Sitzen. Stephan krabbelt die Uferböschung hoch. Ich bleibe beim Boot stehen, das Paddel in der Hand, und schaue auf den Fluss raus, der jetzt mit dem Himmel verschmi lzt. Schön, jetzt anzukommen, denke ich, doch eigentlich auch verdammt schade.

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